Cuisine:

• Bar
• Southern
• Contemporary

Jct Kitchen & Bar Description:
Smith Haynes' ingenious redesign of this once closed-in space focused on blowing out the walls and letting in the light. After that, he cleaned up the design lines and let the space breathe. Soft gray surfaces and lamp shade-shrouded ceiling fixtures supply a homey and inviting feeling, along with the gray battered "shabby chic" table in the center. Chef Ford Fry's food draws from local sources and regional concepts without necessarily attempting to replicate down-home dishes, so locally grown green garlic may perk up a bruschetta topped with white bean purée. There is fried chicken, prepared the correct way by being first brined then soaked in buttermilk before being coated and fried. Grits are stone ground. Fried green tomatoes, fried oysters, and other aspects of regional cuisine will adorn the menu, although specific treatments will vary with Fry's whim. Local ingredients may include the veal in a meatloaf that's topped with sun-dried tomatoes and mushrooms. Braised short ribs come as melting tender as their long, slow cooking will yield. For the Sunday supper ($29 fixed price), one enjoys a plate of deviled eggs and biscuits with apple butter, then salad. You choose the meat, and the three sides for the table. Do not miss the mac 'n' cheese, or the squash casserole. Dessert is pre-determined, but when it's the dark chocolate pecan layer cake, you won't complain.


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