Cuisine:

• European

York & Albany Description:
The four-square building stands at the top of Parkway, looking down to Camden Town one way and across to the park created by John Nash in the 1820s on the other. It was originally a coaching inn, named after Nash's friend and patron the Duke of York and Albany (immortalised in the nursery rhyme, The Grand Old Duke of York). It was taken over by Gordon Ramsay after years of neglect and converted into a restaurant, bar and deli with ten rooms above. Angela Hartnett came in as chef, devised the menu and now often leaves it to head chef Colin Buchan. Starters include white onion risotto with Swiss chard and Parmesan, or grilled squid and chorizo with Lyonnaise onions and caponata. Mains are equally honestly sourced and well cooked. Try braised belly of pork with polenta and buttered spring onions (on the set lunch menu) or a thoroughly satisfying roast stone bass with aubergine purée and Provençal vegetables. It all takes place in a pleasant dining room with neutral colours, wood floors and well-placed tables. The bar has huge windows and is a great meeting place. 3-course set lunch and pre-theatre menu £18; set Sunday 3-course lunch £25.


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