There is a veil hung over Saudi Arabia that distorts the reality that resides behind it. This is partly a two-way process, since Saudi Arabia does not permit tourist visits and exercises strict Islamic principles that non-Muslims might shy away from. Similarly, much media reportage of Saudi Arabia focuses solely on these Islamic-based laws, and equally focuses on its expanse of hot and repetitive desert, its archaic customs in dated cities.

Lift the veil, however, and you will find that many conceptions of Saudi Arabia are misconceptions. Saudi Arabia has many areas of beautiful oases and dramatic mountain-tops, beaches and rivers. Its cities, although having no nightlife, do have plenty of cafes and restaurants. There are also shops galore, from the souk to the huge department store. Indeed, Saudi Arabia's major cities are generally very modern, with amenities of a high standard. And, as long as you respect and abide by the viewpoints and customs of the country, you will find that you are treated cordially.

What has enabled Saudi Arabia to boast such steel-and-glass cities is oil. In 1933, the first explorations began for oil, vast deposits of which were discovered in the eastern part of the country. The oil search also brought the USA into contact with Saudi Arabia for the first time and they quickly became the country’s principal Western ally. Nonetheless, there have been constant sources of friction between the two countries over the years - most notably, Israel. More current was the discovery that the bulk of the 9-11 terrorist hijackers were Saudi nationals and the fact that the recently appointed King Abdullah is generally less pro-American than was his father, takes a harder line on oil pricing.

Such oil might have brought modernising, then, but Saudi Arabia is still steeped in the most extraordinary history. In the year AD 622, Prophet Muhammad launched a successful campaign to recapture Mecca from the Persians, who had made it a province of their empire. Afterwards, the Muslims would continue their expansion across the Arabian peninsula and into Syria, Mesopotamia (Iraq), Persia, and westwards into Egypt and North Africa.

This underlines one of the most important facts to consider about Saudi Arabia: as the birthplace of Muhammad, it contains the holiest cities of Islam. To be critical of any practices adopted in Saudi Arabia is to be neglectful of this fact, since the Saudis take the responsibility for protecting the integrity of this holy land with utmost seriousness, and Islamic laws are strictly enforced by the mutawwa (religious police). To the non-Islamic eye, Saudi Arabia also succeeds in being beautiful and praiseworthy, and in the current climate, this complex country will probably be a significant part of the worldwide map for some time.

Geography
Saudi Arabia occupies four-fifths of the Arabian peninsula. It is bordered to the northwest by Jordan, to the north by Iraq and Kuwait, to the east by the Gulf of Oman, Qatar, the United Arab Emirates and Oman, and to the south by Yemen. To the west lies the Red Sea. Along the Red Sea coast is a narrow coastal strip (Tihama) which becomes relatively hotter and more humid towards the south and has areas of extensive tidal flats and lava fields. Behind this coastal plain is a series of plateau reaching up to 2000m (6560ft). The southern part of this range, Asir, has some peaks of over 3000m (9840ft). North of these mountains, in the far north, is An Nafud, a sand sea, and further south the landscape rises to Najd, a semi-desert area scattered with oases. Still further south the land falls away, leveling out to unremitting desert, the uninhabited ‘Empty Quarter’ or Rub al Khali. Along the Gulf coast is a low fertile plain giving way to limestone ridges inland.