Cuisine:

• Italian
• Others

Lou Boccardi's Description:
Provel cheese is a culturally specific food, a lot like peanut butter or vegemite: either you grew up with it and love it, or you didn't and you don't. This pizza joint celebrates Provel and its key role atop St. Louis-style pizza, with a crust so thin it's light enough to knock back like iced tea (another St. Louis mainstay). The ultra-casual restaurant itself looks not to have changed much since the 1960s. Customers are usually fairly young, family groups or couples, who surely must have heard their parents talk of it. But we've also seen clutches of conventioneers treated with warmth. In the old days, hardly anyone ate anything besides pizza here; now the pasta is decent, too. And while the red sauce is unexciting, the meatballs are beefy but not heavy and properly spiced.


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