Approaching Palermo by air, one never fails to be impressed by the view: the glittering sea beneath, and the majestic backdrop of Monte Pecoraro, overlooking Punta Raisi airport, make for a breathtaking vista, and a good introduction to Sicily, an island of contrasts and great beauty.

Sicily’s largest and most cosmopolitan city, Palermo boasts a long and eventful history beginning with the Phoenician conquest and going through the Roman, Arab, Norman and Swabian dominations. It is a fascinating blend of Orient and Occident.

This intriguing city has, however, suffered a great deal from a bad reputation: the Mafia (Cosa Nostra) is intrinsic to the modern history of Sicily, and had for a long time its headquarters in Palermo. Nasty shootings took place here in the 1980s and 1990s, the most famous one being that of magistrates Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino, who were killed in car bombs in 1992.

Today’s visitors to the city needn’t worry though: Palermo is safer than it has been in ages, and savvy travellers can’t get enough of the place, making the most of this beautiful city before mass tourism destroys its unique character.

The Arabs contributed a great deal to the city’s growth and left indelible traces of their civilisation, notably in the architecture and in the urban layout of the city. Centuries later, the Normans made Palermo the capital city of the Kingdom of Sicily, which achieved its height under Roger II. Roger II was fond of beauty and encouraged the development of the Sicilian arts and economy. He ordered the construction of numerous palazzi that are still major attractions of the town today.

Dive headlong into this vibrant city – and, if you intend to visit all the churches and catacombs, the Norman palace and the cathedral, you’ll really have to plan on spending a few days here! Even the labyrinthine street market of Vucciria alone will keep you occupied for a good few hours.