New Orleans is the jewel of the southern US state of Louisiana, sparkling just above the mouth of the mighty Mississippi River where it meets the Gulf of Mexico.
The heart of the city lies between the river and Lake Pontchartrain and, from this approximately 13km (8-mile) core, the suburbs of Greater New Orleans spread out into the surrounding expanse of drained swampland.
The river’s shape, as it curves around the central district, gave rise to the city’s nickname, ‘Crescent City’, although, New Orleans is more likely to be known as the ‘Big Easy’, a clue to the city’s laid-back and genial atmosphere.
The Big Easy is also a reference to a pace necessitated by climate. The subtropical weather is generally hot and humid from mid-March to October, although winter can be chilly and damp. The city can get a lot of rain, climaxing in intense summer afternoon thunderstorms.
On 29 August 2005, Hurricane Katrina came roaring through the Crescent City. As if Katrina’s untold havoc were not enough, New Orleans was hit with tornadoes in February 2006.
Though tourist areas like the French Quarter remain pretty much intact, many mimes, musicians, jugglers and other street performers (those that lent so much charm to the area) have not returned. Devastation still remains in many other areas and the healing process is very, very slow.
New Orleans was founded in 1718, at the swampy foot of France’s huge Louisiana territory, and named after the Duc d’Orléans. Despite hurricanes, mosquitoes, disease and floods, settlers came and the city prospered. In 1762, the territory was secretly ceded to Spain.
France regained it in 1800, only to sell it to the United States three years later in the Louisiana Purchase. Drawn by the rich plantations and thriving port, the Americans came seeking their fortunes. During the 19th century, New Orleans boomed with trade from the cotton and sugar plantations and, by 1860, was the wealthiest city in the country.
After the Civil War (1861-65), the region’s slave-based agricultural economy declined. Today, the Port of New Orleans, the second largest in the country, is the mainstay of the city’s economy, along with the petrochemical and aerospace industries, and tourism. New Orleans, with its unique atmosphere, is one of the most popular US destinations, particularly during its magnificent Mardi Gras celebration in late February/March.
The mixing of French, Spanish, African and American cultures over the centuries has created a unique environment, blending the genteel elegance of the colonial Creoles, the music and cuisine of the peasant Cajuns, the exuberance of Mardi Gras, a touch of voodoo and a big dollop of Dixieland jazz.
The timelessness of New Orleans can be heard in the clattering of the streetcars, the distant whistles of the riverboats, a busker playing a saxophone or the soft sounds of jazz through an open window.
Its oldest district, the French Quarter (Vieux Carré), has a wealth of architecture that portrays its colourful history. Most of the original buildings were destroyed in the fire of 1788 and the graceful houses with ornate wrought-iron balconies are actually Spanish in style. In fact, New Orleans has 17 National Historic Districts, with more than 35,000 listed buildings.
Music and the city’s famous gastronomy, with such local specialities as gumbo, crawfish, red beans and rice, oysters, a muffaletta sandwich (deli meats, cheese on Italian bread smothered with an olive mixture), or simply a beignet (square doughnuts doused with powdered sugar) and a cup of strong chicory-flavoured coffee, attracts visitors from all over the world.
Though many venues have reopened, they are operating on abbreviated hours, so it is best to call before going. As they say in New Orleans, ‘Laissez les bons temps rouler’ – let the good times roll!