Cuisine:

• American
• New American
• Contemporary

Cardwell's of Clayton Description:
The restaurant that began the dining revolution in Clayton just keeps rolling along. The noisy bar open to the street and equally loud, tile-floored front room draw the see-and-be-seen folks; the slightly plusher inside dining room is most popular with business and advertising types and lawyers, looking for something to accompany a business deal, like a strong wine list. Despite the rah-rah, the kitchen puts out meals that show someone is thinking---a lot---about food. For a first course, the crab cakes are made of lump crab meat, not breadcrumbs; the mussels are notable, too. An entrée of smoked shrimp, not a rarity on St. Louis menus, is made special by the three-mustard and herb glaze, cheddar-pecan wafer and toasted multigrain pilaf that accompany it. Overall, there's a remarkable harmony to the combinations. Service can be erratic some evenings. But you'll eat very well and enjoy perhaps the best crème brûlée in town if it's among the dessert offerings.


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