Cuisine:

• American
• New American
• Contemporary

Wish Description:
Plastic micro-battery-operated neon ice cubes light up specialty drinks at Wish, and that ought to tell you something about the folks who mingle here in the Todd Oldham-designed lobby of The Hotel---and who spill outside into a lush and romantic garden setting replete with pretty parasols and a trickling fountain. But don't let the kitsch fool you. Over the years, Wish has had the good fortune to attract young chefs with interesting perspectives and talent to boot. The latest, Marco Ferraro, displays some of previous chef Michael Bloise's eclectic global grab bag approach, as is obvious in a starter of seared foie gras with white chocolate, wasabi, blackberry compote and almond crumbs, or the Maine lobster ravioli with peas, pickled radish and cardamom-yuzu foam. But the Calabrian native has generally reduced the Asian and cutting-edge influences in favor of solid, seasonal Mediterranean simplicity: calamari, clams, mussels and shrimp slow-poached in a mason jar and served with white polenta, and local snapper steamed with tomatoes, artichokes, squash and basil. The dessert menu is mostly a collection of decade-old greatest hits (molten chocolate cake, crème brûlée), but old Wish fans looking for the place's innovation will find it in the savory-sweet basil panna cotta.


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