Growing out of the ruins of the ancient Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán, the sprawling megalopolis of Mexico City is at the cultural, geographical and political heart of Mexico and is a magnet to people from all over the country. Mexicans refer to their capital as simply ‘México’ or more specifically ‘el DF’ (pronounced day-effay). The DF is the ‘Distrito Federal’ (Federal District), in which the whole of the city centre falls.

Every day, hundreds of people flock to Mexico City in search of a better life - many getting no further than the mushrooming shanty-towns that ring the outskirts. These stand in stark contrast to the swish, modern offices and apartment blocks of Polanco and Chapultepec.

The growing number of people trying to make their way in the city coupled with the extremes of wealth and poverty has led to its unenviable reputation for crime. Mexicans from other parts of the country will give dire warnings about the city – however, these are exaggerated and provided reasonable precautions are taken it need be no more dangerous than any large city.

Mexico City has a troubled history – restless politically and under constant threat from the forces of nature. Parts of the old city, especially the cathedral and colonial buildings are sinking into the soft clay of the lakebed of Lake Texcoco, and frequent earthquakes have taken their toll.

Surrounding Mexico City is a mountain range that includes the volcanoes Ixtaccihuatl and Popocatepetl, which is still active. These mountains act as a basin preventing the pollution (mainly from traffic and industry) from escaping and causing a heavy yellow cloud to hang over the city on most days, although recent measures to limit traffic have lessened this. Although the climate is mild all year round, the best months to visit are October to April as winter slightly dispels the pollution

Mexico City was founded in 1525 by the Spanish Conquistadors, who, after defeating the Aztecs built their new city on the ruins of Tenochtitlán. The Aztecs had arrived in 1345 and established their stone-built city on an island in the middle of Lake Texcoco. Legend has it that the site was chosen because the Aztecs saw an eagle perched on a cactus and eating a snake – a sign that they should end their wanderings and build a city.

The location proved excellent defensively and until the arrival of the Spanish the Aztecs dominated the region with legendary ruthlessness – blood sacrifice and ritual being a common appeasement to their angry gods. The Aztecs believed themselves descendants of an even older civilisation at Tula and it was their belief in the fulfilment of an ancient prophecy that brought them to defeat at the hands of the Spanish.

Moctezuma, the Aztec king, believed Cortés to be the feathered serpent-god, Quetzalcóatl, once driven out to Tula, returned to reclaim his throne. The Conquistadors overthrew the Aztec Empire with ease and Tenochtitlán was forgotten until the 1970s when workmen uncovered the remains of the Templo Mayor.

The 20th century brought with it revolution and saw the start of 71 years of one-party rule under the PRI (Institutional Revolutionary Party) that ended with elections in 2000. As home to the entire federal government, Mexico City is now at the forefront of this change.

From a colonial economy based largely on mining, especially silver, the economy has diversified to include strong agriculture, petroleum and industry sectors. Mexico is currently the second strongest economy in all Latin America.

Mexico City can at first seem frustrating and overwhelming, but despite its problems, given time it reveals itself to be one on the worlds’ most exhilarating and vibrant cities.

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