Cuisine:

• Italian

Italianni's Description:
Italian restaurants in Mexico tend to be disappointing, with soggy pastas, pizzas with undercooked crusts, bland sauces, and so on. Italianni's is a chain---there are over twenty branches in Mexico City alone---that looks like the Italian Pavilion in Disneyland, with checked tablecloths and straw-covered Chianti bottles, and where at any given moment three waiters might break into "Funiculi, Funicula." That said, it serves reliable, if undistinguished, renderings of mostly traditional Italian food. Among the notable dishes are the insalata campesina (salad with Gorgonzola, pancetta and toasted hazelnuts), spicy penne arrabiata, and linguine frutti di mare. Standout main dishes include the pollo Italianni's (roast chicken with sausage, peppers and onion) and eggplant Parmigiana. The pizzas---topped with sausage, mushrooms, four cheeses, pepperoni or a combination of ingredients---are always reliable. Selections from the wine list are uninspiring and on the expensive side. Service is earnest, well-meaning, and perhaps a little too eager. This branch, like many Italianni's, is located in a shopping mall.


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