Cuisine:

• Mexican

Fonda El Refugio Description:
In business since 1954, Fonda El Refugio began its history serving traditional Mexican cuisine, as it continues to do today. The food is quite good, but there is something a bit lugubrious about the atmosphere with its whitewashed walls, on which hang copper pots and dishes that look as if they were culled from Grandma's cabinets. (The dining room used to be decorated with festive papel picado---colored paper with designs cut into it---and hand-embroidered tablecloths.) Among the best appetizers are caldo tlalpeño, a chicken and vegetable soup; an entremés ranchero (a large appetizer that includes guacamole, longaniza sausage and queso fresco); and garnachas, tortillas topped with shredded meat. Sterling mains include huachinango a la veracruzana (red snapper in a sauce of tomatoes, onions, capers and olives), carne asada a la tabasqueña (a flattened grilled steak served with enchiladas and refried beans on the side), and the chiles rellenos.


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