The very name Marrakech conjures up images of an exotic, distant city, of hot desert winds blowing in from the Sahara, of magic carpets and snake charmers and of spices and perfumes brought in by camel trains.
Set within the rose-coloured walls of the medina lies a reality that is not that far removed – a labyrinth of winding streets that open onto lush green gardens and dark alleyways leading to bustling souks.
The focal point is the central square, the Jemaa-el-Fna, an extraordinary gathering place and the social centre of the city that at dusk offers a scene little changed since medieval times. And towering over all this is the Koutoubia mosque, the tallest building in the city, and a reminder of the importance of Islam to the lives of the city’s residents.
Along with Méknes, Fez and Rabat, Marrakech is one of Morocco’s four Imperial Cities. It was founded around 1062 by the Berber Almoravids and soon became the capital of an Islamic empire that reached from central Spain to West Africa. The Almoravid conquest of southern Spain led to an exchange of culture investing this remote desert enclave with the cosmopolitan atmosphere of Andalucia, something that it has retained a feel for to this day.
There followed a succession of ruling dynasties - the Almohads left an architectural legacy of many of the city’s best-known landmarks, such as the Koutoubia and el Mansour mosques. Next came the Merinids who turned their attentions to the city of Fez, ushering Marrakech into an era of provincial dejection, but the coming of the Sa’adians spelled a turnaround in Marrakech’s fortunes.
Trade was enlivened and the legacy of the magnificent Sa’adian tombs was left for visitors to enjoy today. However, the long period of Alaouite governance turned the tables against the city once again. Early 17th-century ruler Moulay Ismail went as far as stripping the gold and marble from Marrakech’s wonderful el Badi Palace in order to lavish his new capital, Méknes, with yet more glamour.
The early 20th-century French influence can be seen in the art deco commercial centre of Guéliz to the northwest of the city walls. But the most significant legacy of this colonial rule is the French language, which is still spoken by all educated Moroccans.
Finally, a vast array of pleasure-seekers, ranging from the glamorous to the distinctly insalubrious, left their mark on the city after WWII. Winston Churchill, Yves Saint Laurent and the Rolling Stones rubbed shoulders with American beat writers, hippies and a new breed of curious visitors anxious to see what all the fuss was about.
Today, the main focus of the city continues to be the Jemaa-el-Fna, which comes to life after dark and is and a riot of enticing colour, noise and smells, with dancers, fire-eaters, acrobats, snake charmers and fortune-tellers. Rows of trestle tables are set up every evening to serve up barbecued kebabs, boiled snails, mouthwatering tajines and an array of more or less appetising other foodstuffs.
Around this vast open space stretch the shadowy alleyways of the souks; a vast marketplace selling herbs and potions, carpets and candles, jewellery, spices, meat and metalwork.
Marrakech is an Islamic city in a male-dominated society, however, Morocco is one of the more liberal Muslim countries and the government is keen to show itself as a progressive state. King Mohammed VI is actively promoting the education of women and disadvantaged groups such as the Berbers, the indigenous population of the Atlas Mountains.
Marrakech is enchantingly sited at the foot of the High Atlas Mountains, snow-capped for much of the year in contrast to the desert heat of the city. Summers can be scorching, but winter is bright and crisp, while autumn brings delicious fresh produce into the markets and spring sees the Atlas Mountains covered in flowers.