The gateway to the south, the populous industrial capital of Tamil Nadu is where the history of British settlement in India begins, which has resulted in some splendidly monumental municipal buildings and a number of broad avenues and gardens, courtesy of the Victorians.

Still retaining much of its traditional charm, this 350-year-old city, better known under its old name, Madras, provides a fascinating insight into southern heritage. Chennai is proud of its Tamil culture and in many ways is still conservative, lacking the cosmopolitan edge of Mumbai and Delhi and certainly possessing little of the nightlife.

However, its literacy and educational levels are high, and women are conspicuous, whether riding their mopeds in a sari or working in Internet cafés. Music, dance and many other art forms from south India are widespread and enjoyed (the Tamil film industry is huge, competing with Mumbai for the sheer number of films churned out, for example) and religious heritage has left its mark with old churches, ancient temples and of course the wonderful shore temple of Ma’puram, an hour’s drive away.

Chennai is not as frenetic as other colonial Indian cities, but it has grown dramatically and enjoyed huge economic growth in recent years, thanks mainly to a booming IT industry. Today, Chennai sprawls out in all directions over the flat land along the coast and up the river valley and feels uncentred and chaotic as new shopping malls and modern sky rises spring up, residential districts grow and spread, and squatter settlements are scattered throughout.

Rains are a big problem in the region, and Chennai often suffers destruction and chaos from its two rainy seasons. The tsunami of 2004 hit Tamil Nadu and affected some of the settlements on the beach in the city. Roads often flood and transport can be disrupted. There are two rainy seasons; September to December and the hot monsoons of June to August. Weather in the summer is uncomfortably hot and always humid; best time to visit is December to March.