Once the ancient city of Thebes and powerhouse of upper Egypt, Luxor has grown into a large town, awash with hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops, with most of its economy coming from tourism.
A highlight is the Karnak Temple, covering an immense 100 acres (40.5 hectares). Of the three temple enclosures, the grandest is the Precinct of Amun, the main place of worship. The Great Hypostyle Hall is 6000 sq m (64,584 sq ft) and filled with immense stone pillars. The whole site has colossal statues, reliefs, obelisks and halls and, of course, the Avenue of the Sphinxes. There are nightly son et lumière shows.
Along the riverbank, Luxor Temple is guarded by a huge statue of Ramses II, and although a fraction of the area of Karnak, it also contains countless columns, statues and sphinxes. A pleasant walk north along the corniche brings you to the Luxor Museum where a small, interesting collection of relics from the Theban Temples and Necropolis can be viewed. The recently opened Mummification Museum has exhibits of human, reptile and bird mummies, as well as explanations of how they are made.
On the West Bank of the Nile is the vast Theban Necropolis, containing some of the world’s finest tombs: the Valley of the Kings; Valley of the Queens; and Tombs of the Nobles. Highlights include the Tomb of Tutankhamun; Ramses II; and the Tomb of Nefertari, reputed to be the country’s finest, which is newly restored and allows only 150 visitors a day for 10 minutes. Nearby is Deir el-Bahri (Northern Monastery), a picturesque temple set amidst the amphitheater of the Theban Hills.
Along the Nile, felucca owners tout for custom, and it is possible to hire one for a brief sunset cruise to Banana Island, or even to organize a trip upriver to Aswan. Hot-air balloon trips are also available, offering the best views of Luxor.
Around Luxor Temple, shopping is dominated by tourist bazaars with enthusiastic salesmen. The more traditional souk, with household goods, spices and clothes, is on Sharia el-Birka. Cafes and stalls sell hot food, and there are rooftop terraces overlooking the river. A livestock market is held every Tuesday morning at El-Hebel, a village 4km (2.4 miles) from Luxor.