Cuisine:

• Chinese
• Vietnamese
• Others

Kim Son Description:
The daunting menu at this low-slung, suburban restaurant is a long clutter of everything from sweet-and-sour pork to elegantly composed hotpots. Regulars key in on the topnotch, super-thin filets of gulf fish moistened with a luscious garlic and black bean sauce; disks of lean pork, seasoned and charbroiled to join fresh greens and crisp cucumber in rice paper crêpe roll-ups; and a tart and peppery hot-and-sour shrimp soup. The whole fish, steamed in wine or batter-fried and served in black bean sauce, is the house specialty. A traditional celebratory dinner in Vietnam, the Imperial Seven presents seven consecutive courses of beef (two diners minimum). Ignore the retro-Asian décor; the dim, flat lighting; or the dispiriting backdrop of strip malls and overpasses all around. As soon as guests taste the salt-baked shrimp, scallops, lobster tails and hard-shell crabs, their outlook changes. The flavors of the marinated, well-seasoned shellfish, presented on a thin bed of lightly browned onions, put them in a class of their own.


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