Jakarta is the ultimate city of contrasts, an intoxicating Asian destination where on one side of the city old sailing schooners trade spices in a scene that has not changed for centuries, while just streets away gleaming new glass and steel skyscrapers reach for the heavens in a skyline that has been transformed beyond all recognition over the last few decades.

Some say the Indonesian capital is an easy city to dislike, but delve below its often smoggy surface and myriad layers await, each revealing more of the character of what is a fascinating home to over eight million people.

Jakarta is a city of both wealth and poverty, with a gaggle of shanty towns clinging to the city limits, while expense account toting expats cut multi-million dollar deals in some of Indonesia’s finest restaurants.

This bold, brash and bustling city buzzes along and after a few days it is hard not to get caught up in its palpable energy.

Its growth really began in the 16th century when the Portuguese arrived to find an established port, which they soon made use of to expand their colonial aims. Over the next few centuries the Portuguese vied for control with the British and the Dutch (who named the city Batavia) and it was not until the 20th century that Indonesia finally broke free from the shackles of colonial meddling with Jakarta, which translates fittingly as the ‘Victorious City’, its proud capital.

Economic crises, the Bali and Jakarta bombings, the tsunami of Boxing Day 2004 and a recent tragic run of subsequent natural disasters have upset both the country’s growing prosperity and tourism, but Jakarta is still the beating heart of Indonesia and one of the most captivating cities in the region.