Once India's biggest and richest princely state, Hyderabad is known for its courtly speech and manners, historic monuments and a distinct cuisine. Today, Hyderabad is India's fifth-largest city, is home to more than 6 million people, and is one of India's leading centres of Information Technology. Situated on the Deccan Plateau at a height of 1,776ft, it serves, along with its twin Secunderabad, as the capital of the southern state of Andhra Pradesh. Over 400 years old, the city has been a melting pot of influences - northern and southern, Hindu and Muslim - so that 'Hyderabadi' culture is markedly different from 'Andhra' culture.
Founded in 1591 by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the fifth sovereign of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, Hyderabad was built on the banks of the Musi River in a grid format with the help of Iranian architects and modelled on Isfahan in Iran. It replaced Golconda, 11km west, as the capital of the Qutb Shahi kings who ruled over the Deccan from 1512 to 1687. Great patrons of learning and promoters of Persian and Telugu cultures, the reign of the Qutb Shahis was extremely prosperous.
Qutb Shahi rule came to an end when Mughal emperor Aurangzeb captured Hyderabad in 1687. With Aurangzeb's death, the Asaf Jahi dynasty was established by Qumaruddin or 'Nizam-ul-Mulk', Aurangzeb's governor in the Deccan, in 1724. The Nizams were one of the richest in Indian royalty, and Hyderabad gained both culturally and economically during the rule of the seven Nizams from 1724 to 1948.
The Nizams' wealth derived largely from their legendary hoard of emeralds and their diamond mines near Golconda (the famous Kohinoor comes from here). In 1798, an alliance was signed between the Nizam and the British East India Company, and a cantonment was built at Secunderabad. After Independence, the last Nizam, Osmal Ali Khan, resisted joining the Indian Union and was forced to do so under action by the Indian army. The city became the capital of Andhra Pradesh after territories of the Nizams' Hyderabad State were divided between Maharashtra, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh.
Alive with its history of the last 400 years, Hyderabad's future is reflected in its IT estate named Cyberabad. It is the Indian home of IT multinationals such as Microsoft and Oracle. Besides IT, the city is an industrial and business hub for sectors such as biotechnology, healthcare and pharmaceuticals. It is also home to the very popular Indian School of Business. Today, Hyderabad is one of the few Indian cities which is a thriving cosmopolitan still in touch with its past.
The Hyderabad of today has shifted from its origins. Most of its historic attractions lie in the Old City, the one on the banks of the Musi River. The new city is between the Old City and Secunderabad cantonment, the boundaries of which have, over time, merged with Hyderabad.
Hyderabad Sightseeing Highlights:
Hyderabad has several lakes, monuments, places of religious significance and parks to interest the tourist. The most famous of all its lakes is Hussain Sagar, or Tank Bund. Constructed in 1562, it is a man-made lake that separates the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad. Hussain Sagar is also famous for the 56-ft high statue of the Buddha in the middle of the lake. The lake is situated off Mahatma Gandhi Road, a 3-km stretch which is the city's most popular promenade as it is lined with statues of eminent figures from Andhra Pradesh's history. Some of the other lakes to visit include Lotus Pond, Osman Sagar, Himayat Sagar, Durgam Cheruvu, and Shamirpet, 24km north of Secunderabad, and which also has a deer park.
Of its many parks, visit Indira Park, a sprawling area located near Hussain Sagar. It has an attractive pond that can be used for boating. The Nehru Zoological Park is one of the largest zoos in Asia. It has more than 250 animal species living in it, along with other attractions such as the lion safari park, natural history museum, pre-historical animals park, nocturnal bird park and a children's park that has train rides. The Public Gardens (earlier known as Bagh-e-aam) is the largest garden in Hyderabad and can claim to be one of the best laid-out gardens in the country. Within its premises are a number of important public buildings, including the State Legislative Assembly, State Archaeological Museum, Jubilee Hall, Jawahar Bal Bhavan and the Telugu Lalita Kala Thoranam, an open air theatre.
Hyderabad is so full of monuments that it nearly never disappoints the history addict. The one and only place to start off your tour is at the Charminar (which means 'Four Minarets'), Hyderabad's major landmark and the monument most associated with the city. In the heart of the Old City, it is a majestic structure with four graceful minarets, soaring to 177ft. It was built by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah in 1591 to commemorate the eradication of the plague from Hyderabad.
Built by Nawab Viqar al-Umra in 1872, the Falaknuma Palace is located 5km from the Charminar on top of a hill. It is the most opulent of the Nizams' many palaces. One look at the imported Italian marble, French tapestries and furniture, and the stunning tooled leather ceiling done by Florentine sculptors, and it is obvious that a large sum was lavished on the interiors. Purani Haveli was the first residence of the sixth Nizam, Mahbub Ali Pasha, and it was built in the mid-19th century. A sprawling complex, the highlight of this palace is the Nizam's gigantic wooden wardrobe, which was a 73-sq m room with closets on two levels and a mechanical elevator to provide access to the upper tier. The palace also houses the Nizam's Museum, where one can see the Nizams' legendary wealth in its various displays and photographs.
Capital of the Qutb Shahi dynasty before Hyderabad, Golconda is situated 11km west of Hyderabad. Golconda means 'Shepherd's Hill' and its major attraction is the Golconda Fort, a splendid complex with grand palaces, mosques and gardens. Within the fort, sites include Fateh Darwaza, Archaeological Museum, Habshi Kaman Gate, Jami Masjid, Bala Hisar Gate and Complex, Hathion ka Jhaad, Rani Mahal and the ancient Mahakali Temple.
Some of the other popular attractions include Chowmahalla Palace, built by Nizam Salabat Jung in 1750; the Salar Jung Museum, which houses the fascinating individual collection (of nearly 40,000 artifacts) of Salar Jung III, who served as prime minister from 1899 to 1949; the Qutb Shahi Tombs, the final resting place of seven of the nine Qutb Shahis, near Golconda; the Paigah Tombs of nobles who were related to the Nizams through blood and marriage; the Residency, an elegant mansion built in 1805 by the third Nizam as a gift for the British Resident, James Kirkpatrick, and which is now the University College for Women; the Mecca Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India; the Birla Mandir, which is located on top of a hill overlooking the city; Chilkur Balaji, a temple 20km from the city dedicated to Sri Venkateshwara; and the Sanghi Temple, also dedicated to Sri Venkateshwara.
More Sightseeing/Activities:
Head to the Birla Archaeological Museum, which is located in Asmangarh Palace, the 19th-century hunting lodge of the sixth Nizam. Its exhibits include some beautiful bronzes of Shiv and Vishnu. The State Archaeological Museum houses an Egyptian mummy, besides a large collection of antiques and objects d'art, such as Buddhist art, and some exquisite Chola bronzes and Roman coins. Its many galleries include the Buddhist gallery, Brahmanical and Jain gallery, Bronze gallery, Arms and Armour gallery, Numismatics gallery and the Ajanta gallery, among others. Built in 1920, the museum building itself is a fine example of Indo-Saracenic architecture. Close by is situated the Contemporary Art Museum, a must for art lovers. The Shilparamam, an arts and crafts village, is situated at Madhapur, a 30-acre village just beyond the city's Jubilee Hills. It holds annual fairs which see participation from artisans from all over the country.
For activities for children visit the Birla Planetarium, India's most modern planetarium, equipped with advanced technology from Japan. The Birla Science Museum is also on the same premises. For a more rollicking time, head out to Ocean Park, 15km from the city at Gandipet. Spread over 20 acres of landscaped gardens, the park has amusement rides, water rides and a multi-cuisine restaurant. Close to Indira Park is Snow World, the world's biggest and India's first snow theme park. Visitors can literally chill out at -5°C on its attractions, which include the snow slide, ice bumper car and all-time show-stopper, the merry-go-round. Or witness some real, manufactured snow fall, another first for the park.
Hyderabadi Cuisine:
Though all sorts of cuisines can be had in Hyderabad, from Afghani to South Indian, it would be a shame to opt for these when in the home of one of India's most sought-after cuisines. Hyderabad's food reflects its history of the last 400 or more years. As mentioned earlier, the city has long been a meeting ground for different cultures - northern and southern, Hindu and Persian - and its food is an amalgamation of Muslim and local Andhra culinary tastes.
Some of the following are its most mouth-watering offerings: Hyderabadi Dum Biryani. Traditionally, this biryani was made with lamb meat, today, the biryani is more versatile, using other ingredients such as vegetables, chicken, seafood and beef. The beef biryani is known as Kalyani Biryani, available at many small eateries and Irani cafes in the city. Another popular Hyderabadi biryani is Kachchi Gosht ki Biryani, in which raw meat is stir-fried with spices for a couple of minutes and then covered with rice and put on dum.
Hyderabadi Haleem, which is made of wheat, minced meat and spices, is cooked for seven to eight hours over-night on slow embers before being served as a breakfast dish in the early hours. Of Persian origin, haleem is a specialty of Hyderabad. In the month of Ramzaan, midnight biryani feasts are sumptuous and commonplace in the city. These occasions see the biryani buffet opening for business at 11:30 in the night and continuing into the wee hours of the morning.
Some other popular Hyderabadi dishes include Mirchi ka Salan, a spicy chilly gravy, Khubani ka Meetha, a dessert of apricots in sugar syrup which is topped with ice-cream or cream, and Double ka Meetha, a dessert made from bread, milk and dry fruits. Irani Chai is the most preferred drink and is available all over the city.
Entertainment:
There is plenty of entertainment in terms of cinemas, pubs and lounge bars in the city. The Basheerbagh-Abids-Nampally road has a large number of cinema houses. It also has a number of good eating places. Hyderabad's famous sweet shop, Pulla Reddy, is on this road. The Narayanguda-Chikkadpally stretch nearly 20 cinema halls, while the Mahatma Gandhi Road also has a number of good eating places and the largest number of pubs in the twin cities. Regulations have most places serving last drinks by 11pm.
Shopping:
The city's unique history and culture is also reflected in its arts and crafts. Some of the most typical Hyderabadi arts and crafts include: Bidri, which is a Persian technique in which black gunmetal objects are inlaid with intricate designs in silver. Again of Persian origin, Kalamkari is the craft of painting textiles with a pen or stick.
Shopping for pearls is a must for most visitors coming to the city. Hyderabad's artisans are master craftsmen at creating beautiful ornaments out of pearls. Similarly, lac bangles, or glass bangles, are another traditional Hyderabadi offering. Banjara mirror work on clothes makes a colourful purchase, while silver filigree work is always a treasure.
Perfumes (ittars) from Hyderabad are famous all over the world. Choose from the hundreds of exotic blends or concoct your own. Also particular to the city are Ikat fabrics, different from North Indian Ikat designs, Himroo, which is a traditional weaving craft of Andhra Pradesh and is today practiced only by a select number of artisans in the Old City, and leather puppets, which have been used in Andhra to narrate mythological tales to rural folk for centuries. Good brassware and sculptures are also easily available.
The city has a number of traditional bazaars and some of the best ones are: The Charminar-Patthargatti-Laad Bazaar road is the oldest commercial area in the twin cities and is the traditional seat for silversmiths and pearl dealers who also market semi-precious stones such as garnets, topaz, jade and corals. Some of the shops here have been owned by families for more than a century. This area is also the main market for lac bangles, gunmetal articles and the silver leaf artifacts. Shops in Abids and Somajiguda also sell pearls and other jewellery, while Begum Bazaar in Osmanganj is famous for brassware.
The Basheerbagh-Abids-Nampally road has plenty of shops selling jewellery, textiles, handicrafts, footwear, readymade and general goods. The stretch from Secretariat Road to Khairatabad has mainly textile showrooms, some of which stock beautiful, exclusive handloom and printed sarees. There is an APCO (Andhra Pradesh State Handloom Weavers' Co-operative Society) showroom in the area. Mahatma Gandhi Road is a shopping district in Secunderabad. It has several new, trendy apparel showrooms, boutiques and gift emporiums. The Sultan Bazaar-Koti-Troop Bazaar road is a colourful and busy shopping destination.
Hyderabad has kept up with the mall culture and if you prefer shopping in their comfortable environs, visit Lifestyle in Begumpet, Hyderabad Central in Punjagutta, Shoppers stop in Begumpet, City Centre in Banjara Hills, Pantaloons in Begumpet, Maheshwari Plaza in Abids, Big Bazaar in Abids and Ameerpet and Brand Factory in Abids. Generally, the golden mile of Hyderabad shopping, made up of designer boutiques, malls and upmarket shops, starts near the Begumpet Flyover and extends all the way to Road No.1 Banjara Hills.
Most shopping areas and complexes remain open six days a week, from Monday to Saturday. Shops in the Charminar area stay closed on Fridays.