The departmental capital of Huehuetenango makes a good base for exploring as it has more accommodation options and facilities than some of the smaller villages surrounding it. To the west is the small post-Classical site of Zaculeu (White Land in the Quiché language). A number of tombs containing objects carved from pyrite and ceramic vessels have been found here. North of Huehuetenango is Chintla whose church contains the silver Virgin of La Candelaria, which draws many worshippers. A beautiful drive into the mountains further north in the region lies the isolated village of Todos Santos Cuchumatán. The men’s traditional costumes of high-necked red shirts, red and white-striped trousers, black capes and red fabric tied under straw hats are particularly smart. One of the best times to visit is during the annual fiesta between 31 October - 5 November. On the Day of the Dead (All Souls’ Day) on 1 November, a traditional horse race takes place in the village. Fuelled by quetzalteca (the local sugar cane spirit), the riders in traditional costume race up and down a dirt track at the far end of the village. The winner is the last man still on his horse.

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