Cuba is not only the largest island in the Caribbean, but also the most diverse scenically and culturally. For over 40 years, the proximity of a Communist state has been a thorn in the side of Uncle Sam. But visitors should leave all old ‘behind the iron curtain’ conceptions of a Communist state behind them.

Cuba is positively pulsating with colour and life and nowhere more so than in its lively capital. Even the name Havana (La Habana) evokes images of dusky maidens, cigar smoke, revolution and passion. Today’s Havana may have dropped the revolution fever but the other images and more are still very much alive.

Situated on the north coast of the island and built round a natural deep-water harbour, it is easy to see why the city was so much fought over by past generations of colonialists. All have left their mark but none more so than the Spanish.

The exquisite architecture of Old Havana is very reminiscent of Seville with its narrow, cobbled streets, shady plazas, grilled windows and grand, if in many places, crumbling buildings. Tantalising glimpses of cool courtyards and wrought iron balconies, where whole families sit to observe the world, are round every corner.

With the help of UNESCO and money from tourism, many of these unique buildings are being restored again to all their former glory. So Havana offers the unusual sight of brightly painted and restored buildings alongside those that look as if they would collapse if anybody rang their doorbell. However gradual the improvements, the city fathers have recognised the significance of Old Havana to world heritage and its treasures will not be lost forever as the area comes back to life.

As most flights arrive after dark, it can be quite a culture shock to step outside the following morning and be immediately swept up in a tide of humanity. Big, black, cigar-smoking mammas with Carmen Miranda head-dresses, statuesque models sprayed into their lycra outfits, children in maroon or mustard school uniforms darting from side to side of the street, Chinese bicycle bells constantly ringing as cyclists nip in and out of the traffic, taxis, Ladas and 1950s Chevies all jostling for position on the road – all accompanied by pulsating Cuban rhythms from every window, doorway and balcony.

The island’s rich history is nowhere more apparent than in the mix of beats that make up Cuba’s own music and the diversity in the faces of its people. This mix of European, Asian and African peoples has created a race of warm, lively and ingenious people, which has helped them to survive 40 years of shortages and deprivations.

Cuba nominally gained independence from Spain in 1899 with military aid from the Americans, who from that time on until the 1959 revolution played a dominant role in Cuban politics, economics and industry. Americans flocked to Havana, especially during the period of prohibition in the States, when the city turned into the playground of America with cheap liquor, prostitution and gambling, fancy hotels, nightclubs and a flamboyant lifestyle.

However, corruption was rife and the rift between rich and poor was growing ever wider. A group of guerrillas, under the leadership of Fidel Castro and Che Guevara, finally succeeded in overthrowing the dictator Batista in 1959 and the Americans fled, taking much of Cuba’s wealth with them.

In 1961, the American government, paranoid at having such a close Communist neighbour, organised a mercenary force to overthrow Castro. However, much to the embarrassment of the Americans, their forces suffered a resounding defeat at the Bay of Pigs (Playa Giron). This was followed by a trade blockade that has been in place ever since and the Cuban people continue to suffer hardships as a result.

In spite of his advancing years, Castro still governs and is credited with sweeping improvements in health care and education. The Cuban economy is tentatively expanding, helped by the government, allowing its citizens to hold US dollars, once illegal.

This has created consumer demand and a rapid rise in tourism, which has overtaken sugar as Cuba’s main source of hard currency. The Cubans continue to be optimistic and their infectious smiles will make any visitor feel welcome.