The second biggest city in Germany (after Berlin), Hamburg has the cosmopolitan feel, the conspicuous consumption and most of the cultural accoutrements of a north European capital.

It grew rich on the Hanseatic trade routes and established itself as a city state with special free trade privileges which it retains even today. And although it has suffered the vicissitudes of war and changing world economics (little of its once-famed shipbuilding now remains), it has adapted and moved with the times so its port still provides its bread and butter. Recently it has also become a major media centre with several leading German and international publishers based here.

Culturally Hamburg is said to have more in common with its trading partners and neighbours in the Low Countries, Denmark and even England, than it does with southern Germany. Its people are famously modest, yet worldly and usually very helpful.

Visitors will find Hamburg easy to get around thanks to its compact centre and excellent transport system. There are relatively few major landmarks, and nothing of iconic status except perhaps the red-light district of St Pauli where Hamburg sailors traditionally took their R’n’R.

This is a double-edged sword for the city, yet one it has handled well in recent years, bringing in new and respectable nightlife while retaining the edgy atmosphere of the district’s former existence. It is easy to forget that music (and not just sex) has always been a major part of the area (the Beatles among many other luminaries paid their musical dues in St Pauli) and on weekend nights the Reeperbahn and surrounding streets throbs with activity.

By contrast to the seamy port area, the city’s major open space, which begins right in the very centre of town, is the Alster Lake. On a warm summer’s day do as the locals do and take a cruise from the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) to the Aussenalster and its parkland fringes. Within just a few minutes you will have swapped the steely grey metropolis for a balmy world of green and blue.