Erzurum (pop. 292,000) in eastern Turkey is surrounded by beautiful, gently eroded mountains. Though we wouldn't make a special trip to see Erzurum, it has several interesting sights for those passing through. If you have time to see only one attraction, stop at the Cifte Minareli Medrese (Koranic school), which dates from 1253. (During the early part of this century, it was used to store ammunition.) Other sights include the 12th-century Ulu Mosque ("Great Mosque"), the Yakutiye Medresesi (built by the Mongols in 1308) and Uc Kumbetler (Seljuk tombs). There's a citadel in town that was formerly used as a military installation, but can now be visited by the general public. Plan one night. 475 mi/765 km east of Ankara.