Dar es Salaam (meaning ‘haven of peace’) is Tanzania’s major city, commercial centre and the country’s capital in everything but name, since it lost the title to Dodoma in 1974. A large cosmopolitan metropolis that draws heavily on its African, Arabic and Asian influences, it still has the air of a much smaller coastal town. A rectilinear grid of streets imposed by the German East African Company in the late 1880s spreads inland from the waterfront, where traditional dhows (long, flat sailboats used for transporting freight and passengers) and modern hydrofoils compete for space. Within the city itself Arabic and Indian districts thrive and Muslim, Sikh and Hindu tolerantly coexist.

Although there isn’t a huge amount to entertain or delay the average transient tourist intent on getting to Mount Kilimanjaro, the Serengeti or Zanzibar, it is a relatively comfortable place to spend time, certainly in comparison to other major East African cities, and the attractive colonial architecture, labyrinthine streets, reasonable restaurants and lively markets make for sufficiently diverting entertainment. The ubiquitous music of the city, a sort of guitar and brass-driven dance form, permeates everything and encapsulates the laid-back attitude of this busy port.

To escape the city and enjoy a change of pace, try the readily accessible beaches to the north and south of Dar, climb into the tropical forest around Pugu Hills or make the short hop to one of the outlying islands, where you can relax and unwind away from the hurly burly of the centre.