10km (6 miles) west from Puebla, Cholula is a pre-Hispanic ceremonial center that once contained about 400 shrines and temples, most of which were destroyed by Cortés’s army and replaced with colonial churches – the Spanish claimed to have constructed 365 here. The Pyramid of Tepanapa has the largest base of any pyramid in the world and is the most striking feature of the archaeological site; on the summit stands the Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios. The plaza in the town center has three fine churches, the most unusual being the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel), which, with its 49 domes, has the appearance of a mosque.

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