Cuisine:

• Others
• Mexican
• American
• Regional

Xoco Description:
Rick Bayless' young disciples-in-training---you'll see them while waiting in (very) long lines---present tortas, juicy with slow-braised meat, from the wood-burning oven and bustle to plate just-fried churros at this littlest---not to mention, LEED-certified---sister to adjacent Topolobampo and Frontera Grill. As for that wait, it's torture, if only because everything smells and, in the end, tastes so good. The focus here is spicy, smoky, Mexican street food. Our recommendations include the pepito (braised Tallgrass short ribs plied with caramelized onions, jack cheese, black beans and pickled jalapeño) and cochinita pibil, slow-cooked, achiote-swathed suckling pig with black beans, pickled jalapeños and a side of so-fiery habanero sauce. Both come from the aforementioned oven and arrive on chewy-crisp Labriola bread. Chips, salsa and guac, which are additional, are requisite. In the afternoon, restorative caldos (soups) expand the repertoire. House-made, seasonal ice creams are a worthy indulgence, especially when Concord grape---from Bayless' garden, natch---is available. An array of fruity aguas frescas, roasted-on-site cocoa for hot chocolate and cost-conscious (but craft) wines, beers and tequilas tie the package together. Carryout is not offered from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; instead, food is brought to your cramped table in the narrow, brightly colored, packed-to-the-gills space.


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