Cuisine:

• American
• New American
• Others

Schwa Description:
Blink and you'll miss Michael Carlson's contemporary, minimal (some would say barren) BYO storefront. In spite of---or maybe it's because of---the vibe, tables, which are waited on by chefs, are hard to come by. You must make a reservation, though they're not always forthcoming with returning calls or checking voicemail (a price you either are or are not willing to pay). The seasonal tasting menu ($110) is filled with surprises, starting, perhaps, with an amuse that riffs on the Puerto Rican jibarito. In the past, memorable bites included quail egg ravioli and over-the-top Chimay foam-topped beer soup with mustard "skins" and a pretzel on the side. And where else would white chocolate appear an appropriate match to antelope? Our problem isn't with the tricked-out food, though. It lies with the service, which can be flippant and downright unwelcoming. If you are willing to stomach a "you're-lucky-to-be-here" approach, however, you'll be amply rewarded.


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