Cuisine:

• French
• Bistro

Bistro de la Gare Description:
From Eric and Elda Ulmer comes this handsome eatery a few steps from the Gold Line stop, hence the name (gare means "train station" in French). The homey décor---mocha and persimmon walls lined with vintage beverage posters and tables topped with linen and candles---would be well received on a side street in the 12th arrondissement. The menu, too, is bistro-friendly, with favorites like escargots de Bourgogne, entrecôte and leg of lamb, all quite ably prepared. We have been impressed with seafood dishes, such as a beautifully prepared filet of salmon in a pleasant tarragon-balsamic sauce. Some classic dishes, however, like the escargots and steak with Roquefort sauce, have lacked the simple yet bold flavors we expect in traditional bistro cooking. Profiteroles, tarte Tatin and chocolate mousse make worthy finishes.