Cuisine:

• Chinese
• Sea food

Ocean Wealth Restaurant Description:
This was the first restaurant in Chinatown to install fish tanks as a means to advertise the fresh seafood inside. While many have followed suit, Ocean Wealth still lives up to its original initiative most of the time. Chef's specials are the way to go, from the bellwether clams in black-bean sauce to any of the whole fish offerings, like black sea bass steamed with ginger and scallions in a pleasantly salty broth. Stray from seafood, though, and you're likely to have a humdrum meal. What's more, a formally dressed waitstaff and starched white linens don't substitute for smiling service and spruce digs; the place has lost some of its luster. But it's a good standby when you're ravenous at 2 a.m.


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