Ankara (pop. 3,000,000), founded in 2000 BC, gained its modern prominence after it replaced Istanbul as the capital in 1923. Consequently, it has distinct old and new sections; the former, "Ulus," is located on two steep hills and is characterized by narrow winding streets. The new part's hallmark is modern construction--the city continues its rapid expansion. Ankara is a cultural center: three symphony orchestras and five state-operated theaters (featuring opera, ballet and drama) perform regularly. There's also a fine modern-art museum in the city. Be sure to visit the Hisar (citadel) dominating Ulus Square; nearby are other ancient sites, including the Aladdin Mosque, the Temple of Augustus, the Roman Baths of Caracalla and the Haci Bayram Mosque (built on the ruins of the Temple of Augustus).
Also in the area are the Grand National Assembly Museum, Julian's Column (near Ulus Square, it dates from the 4th century) and the Aslanhane Mosque. No visit to Turkey would be complete without a visit to the Mausoleum of Kemal Ataturk, the revered father of modern Turkey (it was he who moved the capital to Ankara). The mausoleum, which overlooks the city, includes an interesting museum detailing Ataturk's life. (Any action or word showing disrespect for Ataturk is illegal and punishable.) Another must-see is the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, with its beautiful bronze and gold objects found in the ruins of Alacahoyuk (see separate paragraph). We also enjoyed the ethnographic museum, with its displays of many of the cultures that make up Turkey. Ankara can easily be seen in a two-night stay. 220 mi/355 km east-southeast of Istanbul.