Cuisine:

• French

Boundary Description:
That great and grand restaurateur, Sir Terence Conran, has done it again. Having sold all his restaurants to D&D London in an agreed management buy-out, he was clearly bored. So he bought a large warehouse in Shoreditch and has been busy converting it. In Boundary, the bare brick walls are covered with silver platters; the open kitchen shows a relaxed staff going about their business with smiling nonchalance. The tables are well spaced; the place buzzes. And the food? Well, Sir Terence has been doing classic simplicity for decades and his touch hasn't left him. Fruits de mer features strongly (always a Conran strength); there are oysters, frogs' legs, foie gras, snails, topnotch rillettes and pâtés off a trolley, salads and ragoûts, fish like pan-fried skate and game like partridge. Desserts follow the classic pattern. The sommelier is charmingly knowledgeable; the wine list wide in price and range; the staff operate with that smooth confidence of a job well done, tempered with delightful enthusiasm. Long live Sir Terence. The rooftop is open, so you can always venture upstairs for late-night drinks under the stars. Set 3-course lunch £23.50.


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