Cuisine:

• Italian

Theo Randall at the InterContinental Description:
You may be excused for not knowing the name of Theo Randall. He was the chef who, along with chef-owners Ruth Rogers and Rosie Gray, made The River Café famous, but he kept behind the stove. The InterContinental took the enlightened step of putting him in charge of the restaurant, with his name above the door, in its refurbished hotel. The hearty, rural nature that characterised The River Café's cooking shows here, as does the often apparently simple dishes. He is a chef who makes good use of the best seasonal ingredients he can source, giving the flavours their own stage. Try pan-fried squid with fresh borlotti beans, chilli, anchovy, parsley and chopped rocket, the whole a satisfying lesson in balance. Cappelletti stuffed with slow-cooked veal and pancetta shows the strength of pasta. Mains might include marinated and wood-roasted pigeon (a favourite way of cooking) on bruschetta with pancetta, rocket, broad beans, peas and mint. It is all very accomplished, and comes in a chic, thoroughly contemporary setting. There's a bar to sit and eat at, and in the main space, plenty of wood, leather and mirrors. The wine list is suitably, grandly Italian, with other parts of the world also represented; service is charming. Set lunches (2 courses £21, 3 courses £25) offer good value.


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