Cuisine:

• British

Kitchen W8 Description:
With Philip Howard from The Square and Rebecca Mascarenhas from Sonny's and The Phoenix in charge, this just has to be good. It's a smart room, with banquettes around the sides, tables laid with posh proper cutlery, glasses and napery and a contented hum that comes from a well-run kitchen and a happy clientele. Mark Kempson, in the kitchen here after a couple of years at The Square, comes up trumps with a deceptively simple style of cooking. Try the oxtail soup with horseradish cream and smoked bone marrow soldiers; smoked eel and grilled mackerel with leek hearts and sweet mustard; roast pork with creamy potatoes and pickled cabbage; or pot roast guinea fowl with bacon choucroute, sweetened with raisins and hazelnuts. Desserts might run from warm bitter chocolate pudding with hazelnut praline and vanilla ice cream to a palate-tingling clementine sorbet. The wine list represents good value with wines starting at £14.95 a bottle and the staff are charming. 2 courses at £16.50, 3 courses £19.50 pre-and post-theatre (Mon.-Fri.) and lunch (Mon.-Sat.). 3-course Sunday lunch £25.


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