Cuisine:

• British

Hereford Road Description:
It's appropriate that Hereford Road should be in an old butcher's shop rather than a former bank as the dishes produced here have more to do with the earthy than the aspirational. If the likes of deep-fried calf's brains and aïoli; sweetbreads, pea shoots and mint; devilled kidneys; and rabbit, turnips and bacon seem strangely familiar, look no further than the credentials of the chef, Tom Pemberton, whose skill helped form the individual nature of St. John Bread & Wine where he was head chef. The philosophy is the same as at his former spot: choose the best British food you can find, cook it simply and charge reasonable prices. Et voila---a success! Don't be put off by the concentration on offal; you can also go for beetroot, sorrel and duck egg or crab toast; grilled sole with white cabbage and fennel; or the first-rate vegetables-only dishes. Some dishes, such as whole braised oxtail, are for sharing. Puddings (not desserts) might include lemon posset and there's homemade ice cream. The setting on two levels is simple: leather banquettes, a large window, and an open kitchen at the front which means the diner is greeted with the sight, sounds and smells of good cooking. The wine list is equally honest and straightforward and service is delightful.


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