Cuisine:

• French

Ambassade de l'Ile Description:
Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex, known in France for his Auberge de l'Ile just outside Lyon, took over the former Lundum's in South Kensington. It was a slightly odd choice for this temple of gastronomy, rendered even odder by the revamp which brought forth a décor of buttoned white leather screens against the aubergine walls and shag-pile carpet. When it opened it was quite expensive, but they've since introduced a good £20 set 2-course lunch. The cooking is of such a high standard that you'll be tempted to return for an expensive dinner. Of course you get all those nice little extras like amuse-bouches before plunging into a sensory feast from a chef who spends more time here than in Lyon. Try a cappuccino of langoustines, followed by Dover sole stuffed with langoustine soufflé on a bed of vegetables with a béarnaise sauce. There's also pressed duck just like at the Parisian La Tour d'Argent, a dish which many of us thought had been forgotten in the mists of time, though you can just get a roast duck dish on the set menu. There are three different cheeseboards, but desserts are first-rate, so the choice is difficult. Over 500 bins are to be mined from the impressive wine list, with house wine starting at £25 a bottle and the classic French of Burgundy and the Rhône to the fore. Service is charming. Set 2-course lunch £20, 3 courses £25, set 3-course dinner £45, Tasting menu £70.


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