Cuisine:

• American

Baker & Banker Description:
Déjà vu seems to be a theme at Baker & Banker, the classic brasserie started by husband-and-wife team Jeff Banker and Lori Baker. Banker was a line cook in the building back when it was Meetinghouse, which in turn made Baker a frequent visitor. The masculine interior with its dark leather banquettes, caramel colored walls, gold leaf molding and vintage-style Venetian blinds evokes a1950s downtown eatery or an old-school private eye's office. Chalkboards announce the specials of the day. Especially of note are the daily glass pours, when the restaurant highlights wines from its prestigious list for by-the-glass purchase. The food can be as comforting as the restaurant's interior. A frothy, rich Jerusalem artichoke soup, poured over a lump of velvety green garlic budino, is soothing yet entirely interesting with its contrasting textures. Pappardelle with braised short rib ragù fills the mouth with intense flavor. Less cohesive are the flavors from fanned slices of duck breast over a carrot purée, paired with parsnip gnocchi, though each component works well individually (carrots offer freshness, licorice root pops and the tender gnocchi are slightly caramelized). Baker's desserts are inviting and traditional, but with creative twists such as a Meyer lemon icebox pie that features candied black olives and thyme syrup.


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