Cuisine:

• American
• Bistro

Quality Social Description:
This progressive neighborhood foodie spot is all about quality without the hassles and pretense. A giant rectangular bar anchors the 9,000-square-foot space, with booths galore and seriously tasty bites by former Chicago chef Jared Van Camp. His 48-minute slowly poached egg spills open over tender asparagus rimmed with lardon chunks and Parmesan confetti. A four-cheese macaroni arrives steamin' hot in a miniature cast iron pot. We are still talking about the house-made charcuterie, in particular the velvety mouthfeel and subtle country freshness of the mortadella. Ducks wings, painted with piquant harissa sauce, find a cool companion with cucumber raita. For Van Camp's version of the BLT, expect a confit of Berkshire pork belly and heirloom tomatoes. Pre-Prohibition drinks enliven the menu, where bitters and averna abound. We recommend Remember Rosarito---blanco tequila tamed by lemon and averna, then infused with a smoky flamed-orange essence, a smooth liquid knockout. All sauces are homemade. Remember, it's a no frills, down-home bar---the magic appears in the thoughtful food and zany cocktails. The Pickle Back, made with Jameson and house-made pickle brine, is the most popular shot.


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