Cuisine:

• Greek

John the Greek Restaurant Description:
It helps to think Zorba, not Plato, when addressing Greek food in San Antonio; lusty and earthy is about the best to be hoped for. But there is something almost Platonic about a simple plate of feta cheese with tender pita, and at John the Greek, it reinforces a tone already set by the modest interior. A fava purée with olive oil ups the ante, despite being translated as green pea. Marinated octopodi are more promising than the cold dolmades, but take every opportunity possible to sample any of Effie's homemade, hot appetizers---including the specialty cheese flamed with brandy. Effie is John's mother, and her renditions of the classic pastitsio and moussaka are homey and satisfying. Lamb souvlaki with tart tzatziki is almost a model for lean, contemporary cuisine, however, and it helps to justify having a homemade dessert. Bristly, walnut-filled kadaifi is the classic thing, while green grape pie seems more like something from a Greek Joy of Cooking. The all-Greek wine list is to be laureled for its purity and intent, but Greek wines nevertheless remain a little rough.


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