Cuisine:

• Italian
• Others

Ciao Lavanderia Description:
French-born chef Damien Watel's empire has been shrinking, and Ciao is just one of his restaurants to fall into different hands. The hands should be capable; one half of the married couple has C.I.A. training, the other has serious wine credentials, surely the recipe for a successful enterprise. Eventually. Indications are that, though the menu hasn't morphed much, its execution is still undergoing some transitional pains. Both a simple bruschetta and a more complex risotto passed muster, but pastas have been more problematic. From the wood-burning oven, the pizza Ciao, with arugula, prosciutto, fried egg and truffle oil, is generally satisfactory, but its price has risen to $18, emblematic of a subtle upward shift in pricing in general. The quirky wine list might be expected to undergo some changes under this regime, and we'll keep an eye on both it and the menu as they evolve.


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