Cuisine:

• Italian
• Others

Trattoria Marcella Description:
From the street, this looks like a typical South City nook, but locals know better. Owners Steve and Jamie Komorek's creation has been a hit for Italian "comfort food," as they describe the fare, ever since it opened in 1995. They tweak a deep-fried St. Louis bar favorite, toasted ravioli, into something good with a slow-braised beef filling, but we'd still opt to start a meal with saffron-scented arancini (rice balls) or fritto misto, a dish of flash-fried calamari and spinach. The fresh pasta is the best in town, prepared in a nice mix of creative and traditional ways. Ties are loosened when the calf's liver with pancetta and Marsala arrives. This food is far above red-sauce Italian---the brothers keep it authentic with frequent tasting or cooking trips to the motherland. Servers are smooth, appropriately casual and very familiar with the wine list, which offers a large number of first-rate choices in all price ranges.


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