Cuisine:

• American
• Regional

An American Place Description:
Larry Forgione has come to St. Louis with a flourish. He's made lots of forays to locate the best Midwestern purveyors for his own particular interpretation of traditional-meets-contemporary American food. Located in what was the lobby of the old Statler Hotel, the high-ceilinged room is elegantly appointed and boasts just-right noise levels, meaning it's neither booming nor sepulchral. Forgione's take on local pork is a chop, grilled but moist, over a heap of buttery potatoes, braised cabbage and a juniper-laced jus, for instance. Not everything is local, of course; wood-roasted oysters shine, and so does his meticulously assembled tray of great American cheeses. And then there's James Beard's strawberry shortcake, a star of the dessert list. For anyone with business at St. Louis' convention center (or the Edward Jones Dome), this is very close indeed.


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