Cuisine:

• American

Starrs Description:
Starr's was more than a wine shop even before it added the restaurant. It was also a coffee roaster, beer shop, deli counter, grocer of imported foods and purveyor of fine stemware. But the 1,200-label wine collection did draw a lot of shoppers, so it's not surprising that the concept of simple, well-prepared foods paired with wine from the shelves caught on. The dishes served range from the surprising (Cajun-inspired alligator with fried green tomatoes) to classic (French onion soup, beef tenderloin). The execution is competent, though not always deeply exciting. But the ingredients are first-rate, and the dishes designed to display them, rather than someone's fevered imagination. The restaurant's wine list is very short, but the staff will help pick out a bottle from the shop that pairs with your meal (in which case there's a nominal corkage fee).


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