Cuisine:

• French

L'Oeillade Description:
L'Oeillade means "a wink." Jean-Louis Huclin, who revives this old venue for lunch only, indeed gives a wink to the "cuisine bourgeoise," the kind of food that's common in French middle-class homes. Cuisine bourgeoise is treated seriously here and apparently décor is not necessary to do the job. The menu derives from the market of the day. Among starters, we like the terrine, sea bass pan-fried with pastis, and lamb shanks with eggplant purée. Among a large selection of desserts is the rhubarb tart.


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