Cuisine:

• French
• Contemporary

Alain Ducasse Description:
Ducasse probably intended this address to be more than just a top-notch restaurant, a reflection on the passing of time, fads, the eternity of classicism and, simply speaking, life. Hence, this unorthodox and poetic space where the serious diner would enjoy an ensemble of continuous sensual emotions. The 18th Century space, done modern, leaves one with his feet in tradition and his eyes in the world of today and maybe tomorrow. Chef Christophe Moret, for years Ducasse's second, shares the faith of his mentor in the superiority of the great classics that he dons with discreet modern looks. One of the triumphs of this classical art is illustrated in season with the cèpes d'automne en fine pâte croustillante (wild autumn mushrooms in a pastry crust). Fresh cèpes cooked in duck fat are arranged on a bread dough base, then spread with a condiment composed of almonds, hazelnuts, tomatoes and Jabugo ham and served with a mesclun salad seasoned with a cèpe salt and fresh herbs. Other examples of this extremely sophisticated cuisine are the signature dishes, such as the famous poularde de Bresse (truffled and roasted with celeriac, cèpes mushroom and carrot stuffing), the leg served separately in a ravioli along with zucchinis and celeriac in a chicken broth perfumed with chervil, tarragon, chives and truffles. The veal sweetbreads are modestly presented, garnished with carrots and turnips but, indeed, enhanced with a fragrant truffle jus in a caramelized onion sauce, which transforms this usually chewy offal into a real delight. The touch of modernity is found in the fish dishes where the bar de ligne (wild bass) is served with candied citrus fruits along with a reduction of the same grapefruits and oranges spiced with ginger, lime and pepper. What could be more classical for dessert than a baba au rhum or the warm and cold poire Belle Hélene? More adventurous and exciting is the fresh sheep's milk cheese combined with a pepper caramel sweetened with Corsican honey. Afterwards, black-jacketed waiters will bring macaroons, chocolates and caramels freshly made with all sorts of fragrances. Their impeccable service includes herbal teas prepared with fresh herbs, presented in pots on a cart. The exclusively French wine list includes an impressive selection of Grandes Marques Champagnes.


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