Cuisine:

• Italian

Il Mulino Description:
Il Mulino was first created in Greenwich Village in the early 1980s, and the concept continues to spread to big cities (Chicago, Las Vegas, Washington, D.C.). This outpost at the Walt Disney World Swan takes over the space vacated by upscale Palio Italian eatery, toning the space down a notch with a more casual ambience. Gone, for instance, are the linen tablecloths, replaced by dark wood tables. (But service has dropped too, and could use a bit more polish.) An open kitchen creates a bustle, and conventioneers commandeer many of the big tables, creating a noise level that is not conducive to quiet conversation. Food focuses on the cuisine of Italy's Abruzzi region, with garlicky sauces, hearty pastas and big cuts of meat. Entrées are pricey---in the $30-$40 range for steaks and veal. But you can fill up with a less expensive, crisp pizza with sausage and broccoli rabe or a bowl of comforting spaghetti carbonara. There are substantial family-style plates, too, where you pay per diner for one of two salads, fried calamari or fried risotto balls, and one of three pastas. The wine list has a solid selection of Italian bottles and choices by the glass. Unless you're a tiramisu fan, skip dessert; the gelato and cheesecake are not recommendable.


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