Cuisine:

• Pizza
• Italian
• Others
• Californian

Pizzaiolo Description:
Oakland's food-centric Temescal district counts this hifalutin pizza joint as one of the sparkling jewels in its crown thanks to chef-owner and Chez Panisse alum Charlie Hallowell. Bare brick walls, a rock 'n' roll soundtrack and artisan lighting create a hip, loud, alterna-dining atmosphere. Good food and a no-reservation policy means there's always a wait, but walk-ins may dine at the wine bar or sit communally for faster service. The small, selective menu features daily salads, pastas, meats, side vegetables and Neapolitan pizza from the wood-burning oven. Fresh, house-baked focaccia is turned into croutons for the mild Caesar salad. A plate of milk-braised Niman Ranch pork shoulder is met with turnips and greens, firm, flavorful Romano beans, and delicate fennel. The pizza shows great skill and is worth the wait---a blackened, blistered crust yields the perfect chew, made better by ricotta-like grana cheese, salty, flavorful speck, and a salad-size mound of piquant arugula. The wine list features a fine Italian selection, including Lambruscos and Barberas.


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