Cuisine:

• Barbeque, Grill
• Southern

Bulldog Barbecue Description:
Miami is much enamored of its celebrity chefs, including reality show contestants like Howie Kleinberg. Hence it's not surprising that the pugnacious Top Chef contender's small, rustically-decorated Bulldog Barbecue has been busy since day one despite a low-hotness-factor location, and prices at least half again as much as is normal at barbecue joints. But how's the meat? Pulled pork, the true test of Carolinas-style 'cue---supposedly Bulldog's specialty---isn't bad, but lacks (perhaps because of an indoor electric smoker) the pronounced delicate smokiness, naturally sweet succulence, and slight tangy counterpoint of the Carolinas' best slowly wood-cooked, vinegar-basted pork. Rich beef brisket's more flavorful. Cole slaw, crunchy and refreshing on one visit, was missing from a subsequent take-out order of barbecue "sliders." BBQ sauces (one mustard-based, one tomato-based) are both first-rate, similarly tangy with subtle heat.


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