Cuisine:

• American

Strega Description:
A winding copper-top bar at the door sets the stage for a potentially lively experience. On this score however, Café Strega doesn't deliver on expectations; the funky bar atmosphere is missing, well, the funk. Butterscotch stucco walls and pale oranges and off-whites create a tranquil atmosphere but also subdues the vibe. The food is billed as inventive American cuisine but is more indicative of the standard. Amuse-gueules like plantains striped with mascarpone cheese and ginger, and a crawfish platter spiked by rock shrimp up the ante, only to be brought down by muted entrées. The Colorado double-cut rack of lamb is satisfactory, while the poppy seed-covered halibut, billed as a house favorite, conjures up images of a fresh slab of poached fish sullied by being rolled in runaway seeds from a nearby bagel shop. In the end, there are far worse sins than that of being on the tame side, but Café Strega comes off like a restaurant afraid to let its hair down.


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