Cuisine:

• Homestyle
• Steak House
• American

Porter House New York Description:
Porter House, the steakhouse that replaced Jean-Georges Vongerichten's V Steakhouse, has completely erased all vestiges of its ill-fated predecessor. The former brothel palette of red and gold has given way to masculine tones in caramels and browns. The menu, under the direction of former Windows on the World chef Michael Lomonaco, meanwhile, is as reserved as the décor. Instead of offering avant-garde riffs on steakhouse standards, Lomonaco delivers the classics straight up. It's the breadth of the menu---you'll find beef, pork, lamb, veal, duck and a large selection of fish---that separates Porter House from its competitors. While salads are ho-hum, seafood starters like citrusy lobster and Cajun-inflected crab cakes make a promising start. A porterhouse steak---nicely charred and perfectly seasoned---is the best follow-up. Lighter appetites will find solace in delicate wild striped bass finished with a touch of rosemary oil. Sides, like rich mac 'n' cheese and unctuous creamed spinach, are overly generous but hard to resist. Warm apple brown betty adds the final warm, cozy touch.


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