Modern Restaurant
9 W 53rd St
Fifth Ave.
New York, New York  10019
USA
Phone: 212-333-1220

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Modern Restaurant Description:
He's now part of the MoMA's "collection." That is, chef Gabriel Kreuther, lured to the MoMA by pioneering restaurateur (and curator) Danny Meyer. Kreuther first appeared on the New York scene as a sous chef at La Caravelle, went on to become the chef de cuisine at Jean Georges, and performed brilliantly in his first solo at L'Atelier on Central Park South. Kreuther blossoms on this stage, where art and food reflect one another. Hailing from Alsace---like his former mentor Jean-Georges---Kreuther remains faithful to his roots: mastering the classical fundamentals, uncompromising in his quest for pristine organic products. Certainly he is not a steward of Escoffier haute cuisine, rather he pursues the integration of new elements from all over, as they are synthesized in New York. Kreuther's talent is to know his limitations, sprinkling or garnishing with just enough novelty. Modern this is, but in moderation. The full array of fresh fine herbs play a major role in Kreuther's cooking: chervil, chicory, basil, sage, coriander, etc. Dishes like rabbit terrine cooked in Riesling and anise hyssop with an herb coulis succeed---sweetness walking a fine balance beam. Ravioli of escargots with slow-poached quail eggs, escargots caviar and mustard greens feels extravagant while still grounded. And a chorizo-crusted codfish with white cocoa bean purée and harissa oil is a corollary of Kreuther's free-spirited hand. Don't neglect to explore the less formal Bar Room, spacious and gracious (and more affordable). As one would predict, the wine list is a stronghold for uncommon Alsatian wines as well as Burgundies. A good selection of wines by the glass is available. You'll find small plates or half-size entrées that will leave your mind and mouth on pause, like a slow-poached farm egg served in a jar with Maine lobster. In the main dining room, at lunch, the two courses and dessert prix-fixe runs $48, a steal for such surroundings, food and service. Jackets are required for men in the dining room for dinner, but not in the bar.


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