Cuisine:

• American
• Contemporary

Cardwell's at the Plaza Description:
Ladies Who Lunch, visiting winemakers and art film buffs are all found at this sun-filled restaurant in St. Louis' toniest shopping center. Some are eating or schmoozing at the big bar, while others opt to relax in the comfy high-backed chairs and wait for food from the wood-fired oven. Big, moist smoked shrimp, roast chicken and a regal hamburger are standards. The savory goat cheese torte on mixed field greens is a classic with those above-mentioned dames. Fish, pizza and pasta vary by the season and market, and their preparation is intercontinental. This week's fish stew may be in a Thai broth, next week's soaking in a Mediterranean burst of tomato, saffron and garlic. The kitchen does splendid things with vegetables, emphasizing its strong commitment to area-grown produce, and the wine list is hard to beat. There's a separate entrance from outside the mall, but it doesn't allow the customers to avoid the attitude-prone hostesses.


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