Cuisine:

• American
• Regional
• Others
• New American
• Homestyle
• Steak House

Annie Gunn's Description:
It's less difficult getting a table here than it once was, thanks to a tented terrace and a few more restaurants to choose from in these far-west suburbs. But that's not to say the Irish pub-style restaurant is any less popular. The kitchen turns out imaginative, well-seasoned dishes from chef Lou Rook III, whose vast network of local farmers and top-quality suppliers is widely respected. We're especially fond of the smoked shrimp appetizer and the soups. Serious steak eaters can't do better than the giant rib-eye, plain or smoked. Or go for the game, swell duck or chops, either lamb or pork. You'll find many potato options, and they don't slack on other vegetables, either. This is also a good lunch place, with imaginative sandwiches like turkey breast and pork belly confit. Desserts are not its strong suit, so try the ever-changing sorbets or simply have a little more wine; the list is expensive but wide-ranging, with top California and European labels that act as both selling tool and handsome decoration. For those interested in something different, experiment with cellar master Glenn Bardgett's wide selection of Missouri offerings.


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